Upsizing the batteries in the control (Miz DWC110SZ)

September 18, 2014, 8:38 am

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Since I have not been able to come up with a simple 3.6v charger to wire in an auxiliary power source to the battery during extended periods of off time (cuts out when power is kicked on and kick on when power is shut down) Ive been thinking about building/altering a battery pack for the control. Maybe making something where I can plug in one - then unplug the other to change out.

The battery in the control is three button looking batteries in series it appears. But not a lot of capacity (320mA/h). So I thought about maybe using a pack used for cordless phones that are also NiCd and 3.6v at about 2-3x the capacity (700+ mA/h).

Ill be the first to admit, I know enough to be dangerous... and this is an area where I lack in understanding.... Any pitfalls to my idea? I know I would need to wire in the setup while the machine was on, and guess that its probably best to start with a mostly charged battery pack.

Am I crazy for even thinking about it? Other options? Thoughts?

Thanks
Wade

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Mitsubishi Wire EDM Wire Cut Problems

September 19, 2014, 10:50 am

≫ Next: EDM Mitsubishi DWC110 - What to do with it: Sell or Part or Scrap

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Hey guys, I currently operate an older mitsu wire edm (maybe 10-15 years old) and I'm having problems with cutting the wire. Every now and then while the machine is attempting to cut the wire it will just blow short bursts of air and end up not actually cutting the wire (it leaves a wire cut error). I have cleaned the contacts where the wire gets cut but no luck. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

EDM Mitsubishi DWC110 - What to do with it: Sell or Part or Scrap

September 19, 2014, 2:48 pm

≫ Next: Conductivity plate problems

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I need to clear shop space and first machine to ‘go’ is a Mitsubishi DWC110 wire EDM.
Question: Is such a machine worth trying to sell?
Or this machine too old and obsolete to bother with selling?
I know nothing about EDMs beyond their capabilities and theory of operation. This particular machine was last run bit over a year ago, and is claimed complete including manuals and original software (on tape). There are no longer any persons available that know how to run it. I don’t want spend time with the various ‘work’ involved in trying to sell if the obvious choice is to part it out or scrap it - some parts of the machine such as the fluid filtering and cooling system look like excellent candidates for future projects/inventions.
And so then another question is if I ‘junked’ it, is there any market for the various computer boards or other parts, wire spools, filters, etc..? What parts would one extract before scrapping the ‘bulk’ of it…?
I bought out a (closed) machine shop and the space has evolved to point where some machines just have to ’go’ - regardless of the pain I feel to do so. Not finding much info on the internet besides a few discussions of problems with said machine.
Thanks for any suggestions regarding what to do with this machine

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Conductivity plate problems

September 26, 2014, 4:45 am

≫ Next: Heavy Rust pitting, Quality of water and so on

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We are having problems with rapid wear of the lower conductivity plate in our sodick A500. The maintenance graph says that I should get 60 hours out of it before i have to move it to a new section but after about 30 hours it has about a .5-1mm groove worn in it, and I'm pretty sure it is causing frequent wire breakages. I also removed the top conductivity plate and there was barely a mark where the wire was. What could be causing the lower plate to wear so badly? The dies have done about 2000 hours which is recommended replacement time in the book, could worn dies be the problem? Also what should I look for to tell me the dies are worn out? We are using a zinc coated high performance wire would this cause increased wear?

Heavy Rust pitting, Quality of water and so on

October 1, 2014, 6:06 am

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I have been using an old Pratt & Whitney Wire CUT W1 for about 6 years now, it is a non-submersible machine.

2 Months ago we obtained a CHMER CW-643S Wire EDM that is submersible. The machine had fresh filters, resin, and distilled water put into it when we installed the machine.

I have cut many die blocks so far and the rust is incredible. Last week I cut a punch block that is 3.75" tall with some profile punches so the cutting time per punch is about 14-16 hours. After the cut the block is so rusted that the surface shows pitting on it and needs to be ground about 0.0010"-0.0015".

I've changed the resin and the filters but the rust still carries on. While cutting, the water in the tank is jet black from soot/slurry and rests on all surfaces. The machine cycles water based on the level sensor on the upper head.

Overall cutting speed seems fine to me compared to our older machine. on a 3.75" tall block I was getting a feed of about 0.050"/min.

Does the water in the main tank usually turn jet black after cutting for 1-2 hours?

The water coming out of the filter reservoir is crystal clear and it overflows into the exchange reservoir beside it, the water from the exchange reservoir cycles into the flooded tank and the jets shoot water in from the filtered tank.

Any advice?

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Sodick AQ325L threading issues

October 1, 2014, 5:55 pm

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Guys...I am having trouble when auto threading in a small hole where you can't lower the pipe to get it closer to the lower nozzle, the wire tends to wobble and doesn't complete the threading cycle. But no issues when I auto thread in open areas....any suggestions...

EDM newbie looking for advice on hole making

October 2, 2014, 4:04 am

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I am looking at EDM to produce thousands of <1mm holes in 0.5mm thick stainless steel tubing. The two options I am considering are fast hole EDM drilling (one hole at a time) and sinker EDM (multiple electrode wires in a rack).

I have been able to find very little indication as to what machining times I can expect from a fast hole driller. (Not only MRR, but the movement between holes will be significant when drilling +/-6000 holes per operation)

Could anyone give me some idea of what to expect?

I would appreciate any info on the cost of a fairly modern sinker and hole drilling machine.

CHMER CW-643-S Collaboration

October 2, 2014, 8:29 am

≫ Next: Recast Layer (white layer)

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Thought I'd start a thread for anyone who owns a CHMER made machine, since they aren't that popular in North America and the manuals are terrible.

Anyone know that the program speed in the bottom left corner is timed in? The number shown makes no sense. Says 25.809 but the cutting speed is about 0.400"/minute if you time it.

**Speed issue solved, Inches/Hour seems to be what the bottom left value is.

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Recast Layer (white layer)

October 2, 2014, 10:41 am

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Hi All,

I have a couple questions regarding the removal of the recast layer from the wire EDM process. We take skim cuts to make the recast layer as small as possible, but our customers are a number of medical device manufacturers and we need to improve our process to remove the recast layer completely and also assure no contamination will be on the parts (90% of the jobs are in stainless stee). I've seen several posts on here where people claim glass bead blasting is the way to go, as it will remove the recast layer and virtually leave the dimensions of the finished parts untouched (no corner/edge rounding etc). Has anyone had experience chemical milling? I've found a couple of vendors online that do this type of work and claim great finishes etc while removing the white layer. How does the process work? Does anyone have any links to information about chemical milling?

Secondly is the decontamination of the part. Right now we passivate the parts but are looking into acid pickling. Does anyone have experience with this? Is there a big difference in the finished protective layer that comes from acid pickling versus passivation? Again does anyone have process/methods/links to thorough information about this?

Thanks for your time everyone.

EDM Putty?

October 2, 2014, 10:55 am

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Hello all,

Any suggestion for a GOOD EDM damming putty?

Thanks,
Jaxon

Wire EDM Lead salary

October 3, 2014, 12:30 pm

≫ Next: Warped punches after welding, re-cut on EDM

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Hi all, curious to see what typical base pay is for a Lead Wire guy, not including bonuses or overtime. Any input would be great, but I work in Ohio so that would help even more. I do all of the programming and setups(and running machines) for both tooling and production for aerospace industry jobs. I want to make sure I'm getting a fair wage, I currently make twenty five dollars/hr. I have been in wire for seven years, and the lead for a year. Thanks again.

Warped punches after welding, re-cut on EDM

October 7, 2014, 7:53 am

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Just thought I'd share this. We often have punches chip out or shear. I always get nervous about what has warped but there is about a 0.002" step on this punch now. The cutting edge is fine and profile are perfect.

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Stuff growing in my water tank of a Sodick AP500

October 7, 2014, 10:28 am

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The inside of the water tank of our Sodick has stuff growing on the sides that looks like slimy black silicone. I know I have to dump and clean the tank, but how do I get this stuff off the walls of the tank? Access to the inside of the tank is limited without major dis-assembly. Is there some chemical that will remove it, or do I just suck it up and scrape and clean the best I can? Is there something to add to the water to keep this from happening again? I cleaned the tank about 2 yrs ago, but it wasn't this bad. The black stuff is plugging up the filter screen in my filter pump quickly.

Home built EDM voltage wrong.

October 12, 2014, 5:28 pm

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I have built a Pulse EDM machine as a first electronics project. I now realize it was a bit ambitious. Is there anywhere I could go for some troubleshooting advice? I have tried the obvious source but no joy. How to start looking? Where to start? Thanks for any information.

Agie sinker for sale

October 13, 2014, 7:19 am

≫ Next: What cutting speeds are you about to achieve?

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I have a CNC Agie 22 sinker for sale. It was running when it was taken out of the shop. The only thing that is wrong with it is the pump needs a mechanical seal because it slings oil. Not sure if it would be work getting going but im sure it would be good for parts. Let me know. id rather you email me at keith.hastings@tds.net

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What cutting speeds are you about to achieve?

October 14, 2014, 10:15 am

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Post format:

Machine: CHMER-643S
Material: A2 60-RC
Wire: Excell Plus high performance EDM wire, 0.012"
Height: 3.0"


Speed: 0.053"/Min

Wire EDM titanium ti 6AI-4V

October 15, 2014, 5:55 am

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An problems ? I've never wire EDMed any, its all been steel and aluminum. 3/8 thick plate with Mits FA10 or FA20.
Progressive Tool @ MFG. INC. Greensboro, NC

Santec 300C

October 15, 2014, 8:48 pm

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We just picked up a Santec 300C with F36c power supply. It runs and seems to work fine . My problem is I'm not familiar with what all the setting knobs do?? Coming from an old Charmilles D1s. I can get it to burn pretty good, just don't know what half of them do. Anyone know where a manual is that I can buy or copy? Where , what size dielectric filter do I need to buy? I believe its close to the same machine and control as a Sharp SED300 pictured below. Thanks, Rj

Any ideas on speeding up EDM Drill/Hole Popper

October 16, 2014, 1:29 pm

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I have to put 16 holes through 12" of 4140 using 2.8mm electrode. It is taking 16 hrs per part drilling half way then flipping and drilling the other half. Also suggestions on e-pack settings would be great. The machine we are using is a Yougar YGS-43C. Current settings are:
On 67
Off 25
IP 35
VG 25
SV 110

Any tips manually threading wire ?

October 19, 2014, 4:40 am

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I'm running a very old (1984) Fanuc TapeCut Model M wire EDM with 0.25 mm hard brass wire and 0.255 sapphire wire guides and it's manual thread only. Wire passes from the lower guide through the work to the upper guide.

I have the devil of a job threading the lower guide - drives me crazy. To the extent that I'll do everything I can to always start from an edge :)

If I cut the wire with (sharp) snips it's virtually impossible - I assume the snips make a bit of a chisel end that splays wider than the wire. I try to break the wire in an attempt to stretch and neck it down, very often I get a kink in the very end that stops it entering the guide, but if it breaks straight it certainly is easier to thread, even if it does cut my hands to shreds.

I've even thought of making a gizmo that passes a current through a short length of the wire to soften it, then stretches to break cleanly but that seems overkill.

What do you guys do (if any of you still run manually threading machines) ?

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